Originally launched by Prescriptives in the mid-80s, it didn’t fit in with the power-house ‘scents with shoulderpads’ of the time – instead, it arrived about 10 years too early for the fresh trend of the 90s.
Created by the legendary Sophia Grojsman, Calyx disappeared briefly with the Prescriptives brand, and re-emerged, phoenix like, under it’s Lauder owned sister brand Clinique. Most of Grojsman’s creations manage to stand the test of time, remaining as modern as the day they were launched, and in some cases, still futuristic.
Calyx opens with an odd, unrealistic fruity topnote: a strangely crisp splicing of grapefruit & peach segments, with an added dimension of syrupy guava juice. This fantastical but non-existent fruit segues into a truly beautiful, soft green floral: the water-y scents of of cyclamen, and melon are set against a somewhat sweet lily of the valley and jasmine, with merest hints of stems, leaves and mint surrounding the bouquet, moving swiftly into a delicately mossy base – supported by the scent of sun warmed skin, and decorated with jasmine blooms that have fallen from the floral heart.
Whilst Calyx’s fruity topnote shouts, the heart and drydown are more like a whisper, staying close to the skin without a great deal of sillage. Whilst I enjoy this kind of fragility in a fragrance, the longevity could disappoint others.
Comparable fragrances to sniff out: Ô de Lancôme by Lancome, Eden by Cacharel, Eau de Magnolia by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle, Cristalle Eau Verte by Chanel, Un Jardin sur le Nil by Hermes and Rockin’ Rio by Escada.