Many of Dior’s fragrances have stood the test of time, such as Miss Dior (now named Miss Dior L’originale), a rich leathery Chypre created to celebrate Christian Dior’s New Look. Aside from Diorissimo, their portrait of the Lily of the Valley, few of their scents have had long lasting influence on the perfume industry. Eau Sauvage stands out in this respect as their most influential perfume.
Created in 1966 by the greatest perfumer of the 20th century, Edmond Roudnitska, Eau Sauvage was the first fragrance to include Hedione at an ‘overdose’ of 2% of the formula. Hedione (or methyl dihydrojasminate) is one of the most beautiful synthetic materials in existence, which smells vaguely of jasmine, magnolia, lemon, but most importantly of sunshine and light, and incredile transluceny. Add it to a perfume formula and it brings instant radiance and diffusion, as well as providing space to allow the other materials to breath.
Hedione is now ubiquitous in perfumery, and many modern compositions will have around 20% of this magnificent molecule in the formula (thanks in part to it being in Sophia Grojsman’s ‘hug me’ accord, which has become a backbone in perfumes as a quick way to make things likeable).
Eau Sauvage opens in a burst of citrus, with the dryness of moss and warmth of labdanum evident from the getgo.
It is a wonderfully sensual fragrance, considering just how clean it feels, and remains a bestseller in France. Its influence can be felt in all modernised eau de cologne scents
Comparable fragrances: Colonia by Acqua di Parma, Douro Eau de Portugal by Penhaligon’s, Pour Monsieur by Chanel, Eau de Cartier by Cartier, Eau d’Hadrien by Annick Goutal.