Wild Water: Eau Sauvage – Christian Dior

Many of Dior’s fragrances have stood the test of time, such as Miss Dior (now named Miss Dior L’originale), a rich leathery Chypre created to celebrate Christian Dior’s New Look. Aside from Diorissimo, their portrait of the Lily of the Valley, few of their scents have had long lasting influence on the perfume industry. Eau Sauvage stands out in this respect as their most influential perfume.

eau sauvage

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A Trip to the Osmothèque

On a chilly and grey November morning, I headed off to Versailles from St Pancras with a group of over 20 other perfume lovers.

After a highly eventful morning (I lost my phone in the cab that I took to the station, and managed to get in touch with the driver to arrange with him to drop it off at our Covent Garden boutique) and a lunch that can only be described as ‘challenging’ (anyone that attended will attest to caramel chicken being the most bizarre thing they’ve ever eaten), we got onto our minibus to take us to the ISIPCA campus in Versailles, the home of the Osmothèque.
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Still Got It: Pour un Homme – Caron

Caron – celebrating two monumental birthdays this year: 110 years as perfumers, and 80 years of Pour un Homme – was founded in 1904 by chemist Ernest Daltroff with the assistance of artistic advisor (and lover), Felicie Wanpouille, a former dressmaker. Together, they created some of the most beautiful and revolutionary perfumes of the early 20th Century – from a flower they created entirely as a fantasy (Narcisse Noir), an ode to women who dared to smoke in public (Tabac Blonde), and the first fragrance designed for and marketed towards men (by name, at least).


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Meditteranean Mermaid: Womanity – Thierry Mugler

Thierry Mugler is one of the few ‘mainstream’ houses that consistently pushes the boundaries of perfumery with its feminine pillar fragrances. Angel spawned an entire fragrance family of its own, and a few hundred inferior clones (at the very least). Alien also took no prisoners, a space-age Jasmine fragrance with an incredible solar potency.

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As Modern As Today: Calyx – Clinique

Originally launched by Prescriptives in the mid-80s, it didn’t fit in with the power-house ‘scents with shoulderpads’ of the time – instead, it arrived about 10 years too early for the fresh trend of the 90s.

calyx by clinique sophia grojsman prescriptives
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