Smoke & Mirrors: Vetiver Veritas – Heeley Parfums

Heeley’s latest launch, Vetiver Veritas, is the first in a collection of entirely botanical fragrances. I am not normally a proponent of natural fragrances – I tend to find them unremarkable and flat, but the fact that Heeley has decided to move in this direction following his wonderful Extraits had me very intrigued.

Vetiver Veritas
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Still Got It: Pour un Homme – Caron

Caron – celebrating two monumental birthdays this year: 110 years as perfumers, and 80 years of Pour un Homme – was founded in 1904 by chemist Ernest Daltroff with the assistance of artistic advisor (and lover), Felicie Wanpouille, a former dressmaker. Together, they created some of the most beautiful and revolutionary perfumes of the early 20th Century – from a flower they created entirely as a fantasy (Narcisse Noir), an ode to women who dared to smoke in public (Tabac Blonde), and the first fragrance designed for and marketed towards men (by name, at least).

pourunhomme

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Club Tropicana: Tulum – Cloon Keen Atelier

Cloon Keen Atelier is one of the most exciting houses we introduced at Les Senteurs during my time there. Based in Galway, on the Atlantic coast of Ireland, founded by Creative Director Margaret Mangan and her partner Julian in 2002.

Tulum
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Fire at the Fairground: Déliria – L’Artisan Parfumeur

L’Artisan Parfumeur is the first house that I fell in love with when I began to explore the world of perfumery outside of what was available at the department store. Since they were founded in the mid 70s, they’ve shaken up the perfume industry and created some truly revolutionary fragrances.

deliria
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Meditteranean Mermaid: Womanity – Thierry Mugler

Thierry Mugler is one of the few ‘mainstream’ houses that consistently pushes the boundaries of perfumery with its feminine pillar fragrances. Angel spawned an entire fragrance family of its own, and a few hundred inferior clones (at the very least). Alien also took no prisoners, a space-age Jasmine fragrance with an incredible solar potency.

womanity
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Empyreal Iris: Angélique – Papillon Perfumery

I wrote briefly yesterday about the launch of Papillon Perfumery, the brand created by perfumer Liz Moores. What I didn’t mention is that at one of Odette Toilette‘s events, I smelled a scent created by Liz that captured the smell of her grandmother.  It captured the scent of most grandmothers, as far as I could tell, and I was sent back in time to the late 80s and the overgrown garden at Nanny Rudge’s house (my Nan’s Mum).

angelique
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As Modern As Today: Calyx – Clinique

Originally launched by Prescriptives in the mid-80s, it didn’t fit in with the power-house ‘scents with shoulderpads’ of the time – instead, it arrived about 10 years too early for the fresh trend of the 90s.

calyx by clinique sophia grojsman prescriptives
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Familiar/Strange: Wisteria Hysteria – Comme des Garcons x Stephen Jones

Comme des Garcons has a number of scent collaborations under its belt: ranging from Daphne Guinness, Monocle Magazine, artek, Undercover, the recent Serpentine Galleries launch and soon Pharell’s “Girl”.

wisteria hysteria comme des garcons stephen jones nathalie feisthauer
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French 75: Cédrat Enivrant – Atelier Cologne

Atelier Cologne have dedicated themselves to producing fresh, long lasting fragrances since their launch in 2010, and introduced a new concentration in the ‘Cologne Absolue’ – equivalent in dilution to Eau de Parfum.

cedrat enivrant cedrat enivrant ralf schwieger atelier cologne
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